`€\\1`.A N \\T~l~3~\`\\ i h .Q i \%$‘» ' ~ -

Us _-t X,”-_.vt

»4.r-me `__“__

mu Immun inns

4 ""“ aonunioonur.

. ,I x .

f ._f"F:_4_,,’__Ay ~. J.. .V _,,v“l__ L ._-‘ S _L \

\ ' .

to "\»

`\\-e‘l‘é<

»~ :¢ .,_`»

S .

._“_;_4““;_x,;_.\

L.. @-

Q \\~".

_ G

,,&x“e.~`:'\v\fe\*

v_%Fl'l'\

W on T 6% 5”

' By Lady Duff-Gordon.

T STATE of hysteria holds sway in the Paris fashion

; world. I can recall no other season when colors 4 were so rampant and the desire to srppe-or freak-

- 1 ish was so dominant in the female ilireast. The

Rue de la Paix, the tea rooms of the sms1't'hotels, the draw- ing rooms in the exclusive Faubourg Bt. Germain run rivers of color. _‘rust as in the days of the Commune the streets of

Paris ran rivers of blood.

'Dhere are some color effects worn in daylight in the

streets that actually attract more attention than those lforesaid rivers of blood would, and yet in a way we in _ Paris are becoming satlatcd with briiiiancy of ccicn with# frealtishness of design. We feel--rather 1 would say- that 'we have felt--»that there 'was nothing left to startle us. that our senses were too jaded to be tempted_with any new fad

oipfsncy.

_But this was before the day of the rainbow faces and

painted furs. The chic Parisienne who wishes today toruakq a sensation on the boulevardes and at the hotels paints her face in various colors. She paints nowadays to express a mood. to make a contrast with the color note in her cos-

tume; but always she paints -to attract attention.

The saddest moment of a Parisienne’s r.-nrcer is when she

realizes that the street- gsmins and the bcuievcrdlcrs no longer turn their heads to watch her go hy. That moment proves to her that she has lost her power to compel atten- tion. The rage for rainbow faces is, -however, just nt_its height. and miiadi who drives in the Champos Elysees or tairesa timid constitutional along the Bois no longer dreads the iselr of enthusiasm of the street gamln. There are days when her face is a peculiar shade of green, a grocn that verges on the purple under her eyes; other days when I pnrpis is the color note and the line under thc eyes n vivid " pomegranate. matching her lips. /`

Q'lf blue faces and of deep orange faces there nrc many. The ears are always 'hidden under loops of hair, but the

use slid even the neck reflect the isdy's mood.

._;_ R3 £1 >\~

. T ~

5' 4/£15772/1-'51

on a Black Velvet Plaque

famous "l..ucile" of London. and foremost creator of fath-

icns in the world, writes each week the fashion article for this newwpsprr. presenting all that is newest snu Lent in styles for well-dressed women.

Lady Dull-Gor<lon`s Paris esiaL»»

lisnment brings her into close touch with that centre of fashion.

Lady Dull-Cordon] Arr-encan es-

tablishment is at Nos. 37 and 39 West Fifty-seventh sired. New Yorlt.

LADY DUFF-GORDON. . the

Pull-Ball Plume

ol Bright `

Green. the Only

Decoration

When the ghastly white face. with eyes looirins NRG

burned holes in a blanket. and the vormiiiion lips gave wat' to pale shades of yellow. "Verily," l said: “Paris will go no

further." But, you see, it has.

The Lady of the

And to keep in tune with the rninbow feces miladi's hair painted Fun _

I dyed whatever shnde pleases hor mood and ianci’~ OM’ Fox Dyed 5558;,

My she will wear n rich mahogany coiffure; the next day it Green Top-S

n Broa§l'Si_olc of Pink -E.rmineB The Bandeeu Omsmenting the Head ls of Dull Beaten Golcl.

For Dyed; to Match

Goivns and; Faces

Pailnfed til' Mafcli llilodes and

Furs, Slfiris with Holes Instead

of Slits, and P115'-Bali Hats Are

Among the Latést' Paris Fads.

' f he V ._ T, » \,

,_ ..

_ _ . ..ff- »'.¢..¢": f, y. . =

.>..'<'I'. ,

"" " ` '. I-'. ..

/'_.-,A-sf.-T-~.~.-‘;>-" -" A ujjf:-'_ ‘.-'i'

,_.€x~»;'_";»' ' /i", 'Iv-"`

ff ‘-"lf

f`\ ._` f ,~_

._ f ` ,__4 °\.

,.~.-/

r ._ ‘Ar 3

` \s

ft"

"Behold the most

up-lo-the - second

'Lady of the Boule-I

vardcs. the exponent

of the extremes of

fashion. Willi NGN*

chalance she wears

the loop hole sliiti.

.ar .,_,__,,,

W”/éjaep

may be blue or csllot pink. How

does she do this?

' Easily enough. The chic Parlsienne

has it dozen different wigs, or trans- formations. made. each one dyed a

different coinr. She therefore can nratify any whim that seizes her

But there :irc other freakish fancies

that mm-k this very peculiar phase through which we are passing. I 'blame them nil unrflservediy on thc recent fu- roro for the vubist effects. which has so transformed the spirit of Paris. It was the cubists and their fellows who intro- duced the green faces to Paris. and fool- ish. but ever dear. delightful Paris said if such things are artistic on canvas, why not in flesh and blood?

Among tlrcise other odd fancies arc the

painted furs. the nose ring, thc ankle watch. the _iewelled beauty spot. the gilt- edged eyelashes. landscape veils, to say nothing of the strange, weirdly shaped and decorated hats. and the funny little hair -bustle which we wear in front ln- stcnd oi in the back.

The rage lor painted furs is, i think. a

purely logical sequence to the craze for other unnatural dyed and painted' fab~ rics. And why should we not dye cr point our furs to match our hair, our hats. our eyes? Furs are always dyed, anyway. Why. instead of dyeing fox brown, should we not dye or paint it' pur- pio, green or blue?

This il. perfectly logical. Therefore

for months we have been experimenting, and at last _ws have achieved the sup- posedly impossible. Wo are dyeing or

' painting fox me most delight

ful shades of blue and green. We are dyeing fur wraps a lovely royal purple. In fact. there is nothing we dare not attempt. I have seen a de- lightful pink chiffon evening gown trimmed with bands of -pink ermine. This .fur-, by the way, being iiat, is more susceptible to paint than to dye. It is a liquid water

paint, of course, and is applied with s wide brush in even, firm strokes.

The landscape veils are curious, but

not unploasing when 'worn with the har- monious costume. And what are these veils? Just squares of chiffon on which are painted charming -bits of scenery from the gardens at Versailles; 'bits of sen pictures or just simple flower' gar- dens-all painted in their natural colors on a soft gray, white or green back- ground. These veils, as a rule, hang free from the brim of the hai.. The effect is unusual, hut. after all. has a certain at- traction. Why should we not wear a pretty picture across our faces rather than the hideous and unbeooming splotchy veils of the so recent past? it is all in the point cf view.

Gilded eyelashes are another weird at-

tempt to put Dame Natuire hopelessly to shame. The lashes are first heavily 'blackened as on the shes. Then the extreme tips are touched up with liquid gold. The eifeet is really 'bewitching when the work is skilfully done.

The puff-ball plume is the latest deco-

ration for the wide. oddly lrrimmed hats. This plume is se high that the limousines are being made with holes in their roofs through which. on s clear day, the plumes stick upward.

In tact. with *D high decorations and

upstsldll kbs the wps of all vehicles will have to be curved upward.

The jswshetl beauty spots are fasolmatf

ina. 'Dhey are attached with the usual court plaster beauty spot, and are both _ decorative and effective.

¢/-‘_¢ run In

r i 4'" /

,»éZ’¢ %/

--i; f -_ f -

thc rainbow face.

the pull-ball hat and

painted furs..AnJ

fi*

/j to fit the picture

even her greyhound

painted in colors that match her

gown. wears s mf ol icwcllcd r o s e s round his ncclr."

Fox 'Dyed Purple to Match the Purple Broadcloth Col- tume. 'Hat with Extension Uptumecl Brim and Skid

Plume

Purple.

.,. , '

T -|.ooiiouTi= hhieiriswwssiiiv FEATURE. LATEST T-‘Ashton T-‘sions